It's that time of year again
The days are warming up, the turnouts are coming off, and the fly rugs are coming out. For most of us, this is the moment the winter rug gets folded over the paddock gate or in the corner of the shed with every intention of dealing with it later.
Later has a habit of somehow turning into a whole summer.
A good turnout is built to protect your horse through the wet and the cold. How it comes through the warm months decides how well it does that job next season. A little care now means the rug you pull out when the weather turns is still the rug you paid for: waterproof, durable and comfortable on your horse.
Here's why the gate is the worst place for it
A rug on the gate isn't resting. It's working, just without being on your horse.
Repeated sunlight breaks down the fabric. The outer shell of most turnouts is a woven synthetic fabric. Months of direct UV weaken those fibres, so the fabric that once shrugged off a scratch or a playful paddock mate tears more easily. Fading is just the part you can see. The loss of strength is the part you can't.
Sunlight strips the waterproofing. A turnout keeps your horse dry two ways: a waterproof membrane bonded to the inside of the shell, and a water repellent finish on the outside that makes rain bead and roll off. Repeated exposure to heat and UV degrades both over time.
The gate does the rest. Dust settles into the fabric. The gate stretches the rug out of shape where it hangs. Straps and buckles left dangling age faster due to the elements.
None of this shows until the day you need the rug most, which is usually the first cold, wet night of the new season.
Here's why we wash turnouts as little as possible
We strongly recommend washing turnout rugs as little as you can, ideally once a season, unless it's unavoidable.
A turnout's waterproofing works in two layers. On the inside of the outer fabric sits a waterproof membrane, the barrier that actually stops rain reaching your horse. On the outside is a water repellent finish that makes rain bead and roll off, so the fabric doesn't soak up water, grow heavy and sit cold against your horse. Most turnouts are also designed to let moisture vapour escape, so your horse doesn't sweat underneath.
Every wash wears at both layers. Agitation, heat and detergent strip the outer finish and work at the membrane and seams. A wash-in reproofer soaks right through the rug and renews the water repellency across the fabric, seams and tapes. What it can't do is repair a membrane that has been torn, rubbed or worn through. Once that's gone, the rug will leak.
Between washes, brush dried mud off with a stiff brush and remove marks with a damp sponge. Save the full wash for the end of the season.
Step One: Wash It Properly
Putting a rug away dirty lets sweat, mud and grease sit in the fibres for months, which is why the end of the season is the one wash we recommend.
Nikwax Rug Wash is our recommended wash for both Leader Equine and Horseware® Ireland turnouts. It cleans without stripping the water repellent finish, and helps revive it.
- Brush off dried mud and hair first, and remove any detachable neck or leg straps.
- Clear any old detergent build-up from your machine's dispenser.
- Use a front loader, one rug per load, with about 150ml of Rug Wash.
- Wash cold or up to 30 degrees on a gentle cycle, then line dry in the shade.
Most home machines aren't big enough for a full-size turnout. If yours struggles, a commercial laundromat is the better choice. Prefer to do it by hand? Hose the rug down, dilute one part Rug Wash with two parts hot water, scrub it in with a soft brush and rinse thoroughly.
Whatever you use, avoid conventional laundry detergent, fabric softener and bleach. They leave residue in the fibres that draws water in rather than keeping it out.
Step Two: Reproof Before It Goes Away
Washing cleans the rug. Reproofing restores its ability to shed rain. If your horse came in damp under the rug last season, or the water soaked in rather than beading, the step most likely to help.
Nikwax Rug Proof is our recommended reproofer for Leader Equine and Horseware® Ireland turnouts. Use it straight after Rug Wash; there's no need to dry the rug in between.
- Put the clean, wet rug back in the front loader.
- Add about 500ml of Rug Proof for one rug.
- Run a 30 degree cycle.
- Air dry. The water repellency develops as the rug dries.
Doing it now, rather than the week the weather turns, means the rug is ready the moment you need it.
No Nikwax on hand?
If you can't get hold of a dedicated rug wash, use a non-biological detergent that's safe for waterproof fabrics. Do not use fabric softener, bleach or added enzymes. Use less than you would for clothes and run an extra rinse, so nothing is left sitting in the fibres.
Two things to keep in mind. A gentle detergent will clean the rug, but it won't restore the water repellent finish. And always follow the care label on your rug first. It knows the fabric better than any general advice can.
Step Three: Store It Dry, Dark and Cool
Wait to put your rug away until it is completely dry, seams and straps included. Any damp left inside may become mould by the time you get it out again.
- Dark: a cupboard, a tack room cupboard or a closed shelf in the stable. Out of the sun, the fabric and the waterproofing slows right down.
- Cool: away from tin walls and rooflines that turn into ovens on a hot afternoon.
- Dry and sealed: a rug bag or a lidded tub keeps out dust, moisture and anything looking for somewhere soft to nest.
- Folded, not hung: fold it loosely with the straps done up or tucked in, so buckles don't scratch the shell and nothing is stretched over a rail.
Want to take it a step further? Label the bag with the rug and the horse it belongs to. It saves a lot of unpacking when the first cold front rolls in.
The Short Version
- Brush off mud and hair, check for any tears and loose stitching
- Wash once with Nikwax Rug Wash, or a gentle waterproof-safe detergent
- Reproof with Nikwax Rug Proof
- Dry it completely, in the shade
- Fold it, bag it, label it
- Store it somewhere dry, dark and cool
Common questions
I left my rug on the fence all summer and now its not very waterproof? Unfortunately that is what happens. Months of sun and harsh UV rays weaken the fabric and wear down the waterproofing. A wash and reproof may bring back the water repellency, but it won't repair a worn membrane.
How often should I wash a turnout rug? Ideally once a season, at the end of it, unless it's unavoidable. Every wash impacts the waterproofing a little, and the inner membrane is what keeps your horse dry.
Can I use normal washing powder? Avoid it. Conventional detergents and fabric softeners leave residue on the fabric. Use a dedicated rug wash, or a non-biological detergent safe for waterproof fabrics.
Why does my rug leak even though it looks fine? The water repellent finish and the waterproof membrane wear down with sun, washing and age, often before the outer fabric visually looks worn. It's worth trying to reproof it.
Look after the rug, and it'll look after your horse. That's the whole idea.
For more on how rug waterproofing works, read our Horse Rug Buying Guide.
If you're unsure how to care for a particular rug, our team is happy to help. Reach out at hello@leaderequine.com.au and we will point you in the right direction.